Using "over the counter" dyes, part one

Good old "over the counter" dyes like Rit, Tintex and Dylon are under-rated, and under utilized. Don't turn your nose up at them: they are available for ease and safe, aggravation free dyeing! (You should still use some common sense however.) I don't always like messing with Procion, and right now with everything in boxes for the move, and space at a premium, they are more than adequate for my purposes. I did a rough wrap/bind shibori this morning in a strong mix of Tintex's royal blue and black, transforming this scrounged piece from this to this:



I don't wet my fabric first when i'm doing this---for me it seems to give sharper definition, unless it's purely luck. This is more what i'm looking for for the Hoodoo fabrics, some definite striation, some really blended colours and scope for additional stitch to sex up the areas. Beads will further turn up the heat.



This is the wrap/bind technique i used on this piece:



You may or may not get as vivid colouring as Procion, depending on your fabric, but the smoky shades that usually happen with these commercial general purpose dyes are equally as lovely for your stash. It's also a much cheaper way of exploring possibilities, colour combos and techniques, so give it a try! The most i have ever paid for a box of this stuff is 2.49, and that was in a little guy's store who was trying to charge enough to pay the rent in competition to the big boys.

PLEASE--if you are dying fabric for clothing, then check the references at the end of this post, in particular Paula Burch's page, information and tips from a true Dyeing Guru. Since my pieces using these dyes are not either going to be washed again or in direct sun with a lot of wear and tear, i don't worry about it. This is my PERSONAL choice and method; make up your own minds about results and end use longevity.

RIT
Paula Burch
DYLON
Flickr Group----NEW
(Crossposted from my squarespace blog)
Tintex is made by Kiwi Brands Inc, the shoe polish people and seem to have no actual website--the Australian "Tintex" site does not have any affiliation as far as i can see. (If i'm wrong, please correct me.)

PS i haven't posted much here as i am working more at the flower mines, in a summer textile art residency and packing for a move, my apologies. And where are the rest of you posters?????

EDIT: Picasso apparently is being a pain in the ass, so hopefully the photos will come back!
If not, read the post at my squarespace blog.

Sat Jun 20, 04:27:00 PM MDT

EDIT: June 24/09 added the pics back as Picasa doesn't seem interested in helping with my questions

hmmmmm

It seems that since i "opened" this blog to all viewers, nothing has happened here. I plan on writing a couple of posts this coming week, this time with one on the backs of embroidered pieces, and one on easy dying of fabrics.

stitching with textiles and metal

Lots of ways too play with these!

Use loopy stitches on edges to “hem”
Build layers of same stitch on same area to make more solid
Cut holes and edges—irregular, shredded
Edge holes with threads couched or yarns torn twisted strips
Stitch across slits
Encase metal in layers of tulle or sheer
Applique sheer motifs on tulle
Could have metal in them
Trapped sequins paillettes mirrors feathers ephemera
Metal threads yarns jewellry bits
Handwork in raised stitches
Dissolvable areas—edges and holes
Metal held on dissolvable at edges and holes
Grids of machine to add hand work to
Handwork stitched down with machine
Gathered ruffled manipulated areas
Layered areas
patched in colours or sheers or threadwork
chains to weight edges or manipulated areas
godets biscuits smocking
woven areas

Working with Copper

FIRST-this is metal, so be careful, as with any sharp edged medium! It can be cut with scissors,
but dedicate a pair strictly to this, or use a strong sharp exactoknife and a ruler for straight lines.

If you wish to stitch on copper, use a size 14-16 needle in your sewing machine. Work slowly, wear safety glasses or your regular ones at the very least! A neutral thread will accent the stitch pattern and holes, a contrasting thread can add an optical illusion of colour being added to the area. It's best if you have a thin layer of padding behind as it helps the needle and thread "grab" more securely and gives some depth and stability to the stitched areas. You can also stitch patterns on the copper with an unthreaded needle! Stitch bits to the copper as well!

If you wish to attach to a backing with hand stitching, place the copper on a thin layer of padding and using a large needle, punch holes in the desired areas. When stitching, whether using threads or 'beading as you go", make sure the pokey bits are on the bottom or your thread will shred.

You can also emboss, using a dull pencil. (Anything sharp may puncture the metal.) Either side can be utilized, one being concave, the other convex. Alternately you can punch with screwdriver ends (different patterns), wood blocks, other pieces of metal.

Crimp it, bend it, fold it, heat with a blowtorch (USE PROPER PRECAUTIONS), paint it or distress it. You can weave small strips, cut holes, layer it: your imagination is the only limit! Save the tiny bits too-they can always be used elsewhere!

New methods and ideas are always welcome, as are questions! I'd love to see what you come up with!

Bendy cans - flat out!

I don't know if others are interested, but I wanted to see the effect of sewing a drink can onto fabric - and to see if it would go flat. The cans may well go flat if a lot of sewing is done to them, but wanted to see how they fared if they were just sewn around the edges.

The first can (above) is sewn onto a black medium weight interfacing fused to a cotton denim twill. You can see the bend in the fabric on the left. The middle is slightly more pronounced in its bend - it's on light-weight interfacing. The last one on the right I flattened with the iron on its highest heat setting for about 10 secs then let it cool down before sewing that one down. I'm happy with the flatness of that last one - though it's probably a bit sad that a flat can of Sprite can make me so happy .....

For the "authors" here

Pedal to the Mettle is not just about techniques with metal in textiles and mixed media. The "Mettle" part was to promote excellence in extreme, innovative and eccentric ways of doing things, whether with metal, fabric, plastic, synthetic materials, beads, found objects or paper.

Please feel free to post methods and processes of *your* experiments or discoveries. You are also welcome to post links to interesting sites, reviews of shows or artists, book thoughts, challenges, questions and tips or ideas, projects and tutorials. I personally am tired of cutesy blogs with pretty owlets and dinky florals, when as textile and mixed media artists we can really push the boundaries if we are willing.

That's the primary reason for this blog. Show us your mettle!!

Turpenol?

This isn't exactly about metal, however, I thought I'd ask anyway. Does anybody here know what Turpenol is and where you might be able to get it? I understand it's a less smelly alternative to using turpentine.
Thanks!!
Cheers
MA

Incredibly Gorgeous Metalwork

You must go see the gorgeous metalwork being done by Karen Cole at Artsortments. It is inspiring, to say the least.